[Gocamino] last-minute questions

[Eldor Pederson]

The stretch from Leon to Astorga contains some of the more interesting scenery along the Camino. A bad section, if you do not enjoy walking on sidewalks through rather drab working-class suburbs, is between the central part of Leon and Virgen del Camino, about 6 km. It is easy to avoid, just take a taxi from the center and ask to be dropped at the Santuario de la Virgen del Camino.

At that point you have a choice of two routes onward to Hospital del Orbigo, one following the highway and the other meandering along back roads and rural tracks. The highway route through Villadangos del Paramo is the traditional route of the Camino and is a little shorter, but the alternate route following small farm roads and tracks across the countryside, passing through Chozas de Abajo and Villar de Mazarife, both towns have bars for coffee, is far more pleasant to walk (do take care crossing the RENFE tracks just before Puente del Orbigo). The decision has to be made just a few meters beyond the (in my estimation hideous, 1960s modern) Santuario where the route divides at a highway underpass. 

Hospital is a lovely small town with a most amazing medieval bridge leading into it. Hard to believe a stream that small demands such a grand bridge. There are a couple of refugios, several hostals and a number of quite good restaurants in the town. Be certain to try the local specialty, Sopa de Truchas if it is on offer.

After Hospital the route again divides with one option following the highway and the other on back roads and country tracks to Astorga. The latter is the only choice, taking the pilgrim through several small farming villages up a rise, though a chestnut forest, to one of my favorite vistas on the entire Camino, the view of Astorga from Crucero de Santa Toribio (thus it is indicated in my atlas). Largely free of the bland high-rise buildings that surround most Spanish towns and cities, the skyline of Astorga seen from the Crucero is similar to that a  pilgrim or earlier eras would have enjoyed, dominated by the spires of the cathedral. A fine place for a rest before the walk into one of my favorite cities on the Camino. 

Buen Camino