[Gocamino] New Year ´s Eve in Santiago

[Blaroli at aol.com]

Hello you all,
When I came to Santiago for the opening of the Holy Door a year ago and partook of the celebration I thought that I would never ever see such a New Year´s Eve anywhere (this after having spent many a¨"Reveillon" in Rio de Janeiro with its miles of beaches all erupting into a symphony of fireworks and music at the stroke of the New Year´s first second.  Justifiable, people go to Rio from all over the world for the spectacular opening of the New Year). But the one in Santiago was that, and much, much more. It was far less a hedonistic party than a celebration of something both simple and wonderful. I thought it had to do with the joy of the coming of the Xacobean Year and the fact that the Holy Door, with its promise of an opportunity for reflection, redemption and self-forgiveness, ("indulgence"), had opened a few hours earlier.
But this time, the door had closed and I couldn´t see the reason to celebrate.  Frankly, the day with the medals, the dinner, the Botafumeiro twice, the procession and the sung Te Deum, with the Archbishop kneeling outside the door before locking it, and then handing the key to a young altar boy who took it away reverently on a tray and could hardly contain his tears was too much for most of us.
Throughout the Cathedral huge Plasma TV screens had been positioned, so that the ceremonies at the door could be clearly be seen by all, particularly those of us sitting on the "reserved" seats who had one of those screens right in front.
Frankly, I didn´t want to do much after that. I went to my hotel, half a block or so away, to change and relax and my intent was to calm down by finishing a book that I´d begun to read (a wonderful biography of Cosima Liszt Wagner). But about 11:00 p.m. the street excitement began to waft through the hughe concrete walls of the hotel and I decided to go and look-see since I was already practically there.
At Quintana there were a slew of young people around  long tables handing out the Xunta-provided Cava (Spanish champagne) and grapes. I was aked if I preferred the grapes "peeled" and was given a little can with twelve white peeled grapes which, I already knew, were to be eaten one at every peal of the Brerenguela (tha famous bell) as it marked the midnight hour.
The peeled grapes were very good, and they made me remember those two formidable and admirable American women, Julia Child and Katherine Hepburn, who were repeatedly reported to require that their grapes be peeled.... (They may have been onto something sinco both lived into their nineties).
At the sound of the 12th ring the place exploded.... magnificently and incredibly... No one that I saw was drinking, but it seemed that we all became intoxicated by the spectacle. The fireworks emanated from the roof of the Cathedral and the whole of it seemed to be lifted up in smoke and colors and then be put gently down. Showers and showers of fireworks, in many colors, going uop and coming down, and accompanied by bells ringing and other-wordly swishing sounds.... like a planet being born. One could look up and see shell figures and Santiago Crosses flaming in the sky, and the communal feeling of aliveness was tremendous.
Grant, my dear, it occurred to me, right there and then, that there was no other place that I would rather be, and that I had never been so happy.... and so different.... all by myself, free of friends or relatives and yet in perfect company.  Like the Camino.  A lone shepperdess of my feelings and thoughts and solely responsible for them... without fear and capable of joy.
The fireworks were overwhelmingly beautiful, and when it seemed that they or the music couldn´t get any better, they did... with a fantastic finale that proclaimed "COMPOSTELA 2010" in huge flaming letters in the sky.
Somehow, while many of us may have feared that we might not see another Xacobean Year, such fear turned into a happy resolve to absolutely do so.
Tha party that followed first in Quintana and then down onto Platerias was exhilarating and contagious.  Dancing Conga lines were formed with children, adults, and one and all joining in, and the champagne just flowed.
There was a stage covering the 15 steps that lead from Platerias to Quintana with a lively orchestra and the area was so full that the dancing spilled onto all the surrounding streets.
I am, and have always been, painfully shy (and unfortunate trait that often is misconstrued for arrogance), yet, before I knew it, I myself was dancing with one and all, and freely partaking of the bubbles. At one point some young Brazilians appeares with their inimitable brand of joy dancing samba in front of the Pilgrims´ Office (samba, like sevillanas, has got to be learned commencing at age 2, or so, if it is ever to be learned), the Brasilians enticed everyone with their laughter and their dancing and the bottles of champagne that they kept sharing.  -I´ve said it many times, Viva, Viva  Brazil, that confetti country in our increasingly and pervasively drippy planet.-
The first two pìlgrims arrived in the middle of the goings on, at about 2-3 a.m. to the Pilgrims office. They had walked a long while hoping to make it before midnight. One of them was limping badly from his blisters, but they seemed so very happy.
At one point, when I could no longer tell the differense between the street floor and the walls I made it to my bed.
Waking up just in time for the Pilgrims´Mass it fascinated me that I didn´t even have a need for Bloody Marys or such!

Now, the good news: by accident I found that in Spain there is SLR camera film available of 1600 speed. I used it that night and got some pictures which will better convey to you all what went on.  As soon as I get home I´ll send them to Kat Gower and she can post them.
I was given a few of those tin cans with the peeled 12 grapes. I´ll also send them to Kat although I do not know what she´ll do with them.  I refused, however, to accept the chocolate-covered peeled grapes since the mere idea of such a thing was unsavory. 
.....I´m glad I finally got to send this message because I very much wanted to share with you what went on.
Big Hug.... and, COMPOSTELA 2010!
Rosina