current conditions on the camino

[Maura Santangelo]

Hello,  this is Maura, I just finished the camino and am resubscribing to let
you know  the conditions on the camino during May and June.

First of all there are about 200 people starting from Roncesvalles everyday,
the number of registered pilgrims up to the month of May is about the same as
that of the anno santo of 1999.  Most of the refugios are full by noon, and
the anxiety of finding a bed has has altered some people's behavior.  Most
leave early in the morning, rush to the next refugio and wait a few hours for
the refugio to open.  Leaving early to avoid the heat is a good idea, but
stopping in the middle of the day when hottest is also a good idea, leaving
in the dark, however seems silly.  The atmosphere is very anxious and at
times unpleasant.  We gave up staying in the refugios to avoid the mad rush
and to enjoy the walk, but that meant ending in a town that had hotels as we
did not carry a tent.  I would recommend carrying one, as the camp sites are
actually better than the conditions of most refugios: more toilets and
showers, washing machines and dryers.  This from someone who, like us, gave
on refugios but carried a tent.  On the other hand I was very grateful that
refugios exist at all, even if I could not use them.

Staying in hstals meant that we could stop during the walk and explore a
place without worrying about finding a bed , it meant being able to leave
later in the morning as well when we felt like it.  Of course it costs more
and it may  not be affordable for everyone.  We probably spent between 23 and
60 euros a night for a double with bath.  A few times the hotels were also
full as some people reserved them ahead of time, but we always found a place
to stay.

I was also told that the mayors of the towns through which the camino goes
are responsible for finding a place for pilgrims to sleep.  The only time we
were really stuck we asked for rooms at the local bar and they found us a
place to stay.  The local paper said that they had to open 'deportivos' for
the overflow in several towns.  We slept on the floor in a couple of places,
a rather pleasant experience when it was also outdoors.

If you can avoid walking for loing distance on the pavement, I found the walk
into Burgos almost deadly..over 5 kms in town, traffic and hard pavement

Much was written on this list about possible anti-American feelings in Spain,
we encountered none of it and we never tried to pass for Canadians as some
people suggested.

I finished the camino at Finisterre.  I would highly recommend it, it made
for a satisfying closure.  Plan to stay in Santiago for a few days, you will
come across people you thought you would never see again.  It may also take
you 4 days to reserve a flight  on Iberia with the pilgrims compostella, so
do it as soon as you can on arrival.  I would also recommend attending some
of the masses during your walk even if you are not a practicing Catholic, and
even if organized religion turns you off.  It added a cultural and religious
element that one cannot get in other ways, it really reinforced the sense of
the devotion of thousands of people who created the walk and made the
historical reality of St James tomb existence  or lack therof totally
irrelevant .  In fact the miracle of the camino are the sincerity of the
people who do it and their stories.

On more practical matters: After you pack, go through your bag again and get
rid of half the stuff, believe me you will not need what you do not have with
you.  My pack weighed only 8 kg without water and food and I never felt
deprived of anything.

If you have any more specific questions you can write to me at
maurasantangeloastny.rr.com.  WE kept a web site during the walk as I was
doing the walk partly as a fundraiser, if you care interested you can see
photos from every day at www.fieldofstars.com

buen camino

Maura