walking alone

[Gabrielle Milanich]

Anna,

I only encountered closed refugios twice: Pamplona and Los Arcos.  I think
that I was able to find beds because I kept the distances fairly regular
(averaging 20 kms per day) so I was never walking beyond 2:00.  But sometimes
that's even too late.  I would say don't worry because I know for a fact that
the people who arrived late and could not find a place in the refugio were
well taken care of.  Residents and the hospitalejeros rallied around them in
order to find a place for them to sleep and rest for the night.  If it really
concerns you, I would suggest keeping your days planned so that you arrive
"with the herd."  :-)  That way, you are arriving in villages that are
equipped to deal with pilgrims and you will have avoided a smaller village
with no facilities.  it may sound contradictory becaue you will be with a
larger group of people, but it may make you feel a little more secure until
you get your "camino legs."  After a week, you will feel as if you've been
doing this your entire life and can then get a little more adventurous and
strike out on your own.

Concretely though, I found hostels, albuergues and refugios to be amply
available.  Don't be tricked into thinking there is only one "official"
refugio.  Some towns have a couple.  You will also see signs in the windows
offering rooms or a bed.

I hear your nervousness and there's nothing I can say to ease that.  It was
just a short while ago that I was feeling the same way.  I can only say that
that nervousness disappears fairly quickly, you settle in to the daily
rituals of walking and survivial and everything opens up.  You will fine and
well cared for.  Don't be afraid to ask for help!!!!!  I cannot stress this
enough.  Here's another one of my Camino stories that fits with your
question.  Geez, did I tell this one before?  I hope not!  if so, sorry and
just ignore it!!!  :-)

I left from Zubiri feeling pretty strong, but after a few hours the pain in
my legs had returned and I felt as bad as I had the day before.  I walked
through Trinidad (never thinking to rest there), Villava and Burlada hating
every minute.  There was a religious festival going on, the streets were
jam-packed and everyone was staring at me because I was leaning on my pole as
if it were a cane, taking these little baby steps.  (The previous day's
lesson of walking tall and taking long strides had abandoned me.)  Then, this
elderly French women walked by me at quite a healthy pace and I felt
humiliated.  I followed them into Pamplona only to find the refugio closed.
I also didn't recognize anyone I had met before.  I was told to walk on to
Cizur Minor (about 5 kms away).  Well, at that point 5 km may as well have
been 10 or 20.  But I walked through the old city and came out on the other
side in the more modern section.  I was then determined to find a taxi and a
Sheraton or Hilton!  But it was Sunday, mid-afternoon, no taxis, no nothing.
I had yet to understand or acclamate to the siesta.  I saw a phone and phoned
home, telling my mom that I hated Spain and I was coming home!  She then said
an interesting thing.  She told me that she was concerned about my physical
capabilities of walking the Camino and that no one would think less of me if
I came home early.  At that moment, I knew I would think less of me.  After
all, I was only three days into the journey - how could I possibly come home
after only three days.  I knew the pain would go away as soon as I became
conditioned to the walking, but in the moment I was at a loss.  I told her I
would try and find someplace to stay and call her the next day.  I then sat
on the curb for fifteen minutes looking I'm certain very pitiful and
homeless.  I practiced saying "where can I find a taxi stand, please" as
people walked by.  Finally, I knew i couldn't sit there forever, so I
approached a man with his family.  I don't know what made me choose him.  All
I can say, with complete certainity is that someone or something was looking
out for me.  His name was Manuel and he and his wife had both been pilgrims.
They had taken an oath to help any pilgrim they encountered.  To get to the
point, this man and his family, drove me to a pensione (beautiful and
affordable), got me checked in and situated, came back after an hour to check
on me, bring me medicine for my muscles, and invite me to dinner at their
home.  Manuel then picked me at 8:00 that evening and I had an exquisite meal
with Manuel, Maria, and their two children Frederico and Clara.  I can only
say they are true angels!  I stayed in Pamplona another day to rest (although
all I did was walk around the city).  During that day, I would be standing in
one plaza or another and I would hear my name being shouted by someone I had
previously met.  It seems everyone had stayed in Trinidad, where I had kept
walking.  They were all refreshed and were moving on to Cizur - a short day's
walk.  But I had a perfectly marvelous time sitting in a cafe, while friends
I had met filed in and out.  I promised them I would start out early and meet
them in order to walk with them out of Cizur and over the mountain to Puenta
la Reina - which is exactly what happened.  Needless to say, I called my mom
and told her I loved Spain and there was no way I was coming home.

I think the point of this story is that when I finally gave up my need to
control every little situation to MY definitions, and just allowed someone
else to help me, I found myself in excellent situations.

Anna, trust your instincts and yourself certianly, but also trust in
humanity.  In that balance you will be embraced and cared for!

Buen Camino!
Gabrielle
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