<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Anna,
<BR>
<BR>I only encountered closed refugios twice: Pamplona and Los Arcos. I think
<BR>that I was able to find beds because I kept the distances fairly regular
<BR>(averaging 20 kms per day) so I was never walking beyond 2:00. But sometimes
<BR>that's even too late. I would say don't worry because I know for a fact that
<BR>the people who arrived late and could not find a place in the refugio were
<BR>well taken care of. Residents and the hospitalejeros rallied around them in
<BR>order to find a place for them to sleep and rest for the night. If it really
<BR>concerns you, I would suggest keeping your days planned so that you arrive
<BR>"with the herd." :-) That way, you are arriving in villages that are
<BR>equipped to deal with pilgrims and you will have avoided a smaller village
<BR>with no facilities. it may sound contradictory becaue you will be with a
<BR>larger group of people, but it may make you feel a little more secure until
<BR>you get your "camino legs." After a week, you will feel as if you've been
<BR>doing this your entire life and can then get a little more adventurous and
<BR>strike out on your own.
<BR>
<BR>Concretely though, I found hostels, albuergues and refugios to be amply
<BR>available. Don't be tricked into thinking there is only one "official"
<BR>refugio. Some towns have a couple. You will also see signs in the windows
<BR>offering rooms or a bed.
<BR>
<BR>I hear your nervousness and there's nothing I can say to ease that. It was
<BR>just a short while ago that I was feeling the same way. I can only say that
<BR>that nervousness disappears fairly quickly, you settle in to the daily
<BR>rituals of walking and survivial and everything opens up. You will fine and
<BR>well cared for. Don't be afraid to ask for help!!!!! I cannot stress this
<BR>enough. Here's another one of my Camino stories that fits with your
<BR>question. Geez, did I tell this one before? I hope not! if so, sorry and
<BR>just ignore it!!! :-)
<BR>
<BR>I left from Zubiri feeling pretty strong, but after a few hours the pain in
<BR>my legs had returned and I felt as bad as I had the day before. I walked
<BR>through Trinidad (never thinking to rest there), Villava and Burlada hating
<BR>every minute. There was a religious festival going on, the streets were
<BR>jam-packed and everyone was staring at me because I was leaning on my pole as
<BR>if it were a cane, taking these little baby steps. (The previous day's
<BR>lesson of walking tall and taking long strides had abandoned me.) Then, this
<BR>elderly French women walked by me at quite a healthy pace and I felt
<BR>humiliated. I followed them into Pamplona only to find the refugio closed.
<BR>I also didn't recognize anyone I had met before. I was told to walk on to
<BR>Cizur Minor (about 5 kms away). Well, at that point 5 km may as well have
<BR>been 10 or 20. But I walked through the old city and came out on the other
<BR>side in the more modern section. I was then determined to find a taxi and a
<BR>Sheraton or Hilton! But it was Sunday, mid-afternoon, no taxis, no nothing.
<BR>I had yet to understand or acclamate to the siesta. I saw a phone and phoned
<BR>home, telling my mom that I hated Spain and I was coming home! She then said
<BR>an interesting thing. She told me that she was concerned about my physical
<BR>capabilities of walking the Camino and that no one would think less of me if
<BR>I came home early. At that moment, I knew I would think less of me. After
<BR>all, I was only three days into the journey - how could I possibly come home
<BR>after only three days. I knew the pain would go away as soon as I became
<BR>conditioned to the walking, but in the moment I was at a loss. I told her I
<BR>would try and find someplace to stay and call her the next day. I then sat
<BR>on the curb for fifteen minutes looking I'm certain very pitiful and
<BR>homeless. I practiced saying "where can I find a taxi stand, please" as
<BR>people walked by. Finally, I knew i couldn't sit there forever, so I
<BR>approached a man with his family. I don't know what made me choose him. All
<BR>I can say, with complete certainity is that someone or something was looking
<BR>out for me. His name was Manuel and he and his wife had both been pilgrims.
<BR>They had taken an oath to help any pilgrim they encountered. To get to the
<BR>point, this man and his family, drove me to a pensione (beautiful and
<BR>affordable), got me checked in and situated, came back after an hour to check
<BR>on me, bring me medicine for my muscles, and invite me to dinner at their
<BR>home. Manuel then picked me at 8:00 that evening and I had an exquisite meal
<BR>with Manuel, Maria, and their two children Frederico and Clara. I can only
<BR>say they are true angels! I stayed in Pamplona another day to rest (although
<BR>all I did was walk around the city). During that day, I would be standing in
<BR>one plaza or another and I would hear my name being shouted by someone I had
<BR>previously met. It seems everyone had stayed in Trinidad, where I had kept
<BR>walking. They were all refreshed and were moving on to Cizur - a short day's
<BR>walk. But I had a perfectly marvelous time sitting in a cafe, while friends
<BR>I had met filed in and out. I promised them I would start out early and meet
<BR>them in order to walk with them out of Cizur and over the mountain to Puenta
<BR>la Reina - which is exactly what happened. Needless to say, I called my mom
<BR>and told her I loved Spain and there was no way I was coming home.
<BR>
<BR>I think the point of this story is that when I finally gave up my need to
<BR>control every little situation to MY definitions, and just allowed someone
<BR>else to help me, I found myself in excellent situations.
<BR>
<BR>Anna, trust your instincts and yourself certianly, but also trust in
<BR>humanity. In that balance you will be embraced and cared for!
<BR>
<BR>Buen Camino!
<BR>Gabrielle</FONT></HTML>