[Gocamino] 2008 April and May pilgrims

[Rosina]

Hello Donald and all,
,

The Primitive Way (El Camino Primitivo) was followed by the first Santiago pilgrims that went from Asturias to the tomb of Saint James. It is, consequently, believed to be the very first established Xacobean route, which explains its name.(Primitivo, in Spanish, means "the first one".... in fact, many first-born sons are actually given such name as their official one).

King Alfonso II, “The Chaste” himself went from his Asturian Capital, Oviedo, to the tomb of Saint James at the beginning of the Ninth Century following this route. This monarch was decisive in declaring the remains found in Compostela to be those of the Apostle; he also financed the building of the first basilica in the nescient town of Santiago and encouraged and endowed the establishment of the first monastic communities in the environs.

Because of its origin, the Camino Primitivo is chock-full of unbelievable historical treasures, relics and ruins, made more stunningly amazing because they are scarcely known.

The Camino Primitivo traditionally commenced in Oviedo, but eventually was followed by northern Spaniards and Europeans as well, It was dotted by “hospitals” (places of refuge and shelter) for pilgrims, particularly situated on the heights of mountains and hills (witness Fonsagrada) to aid pilgrims who had to contend with snow, wind and the challenges of the terrain.

On the tenth century the French Camino was firmly established and became more popular because of its easy accessibility from the rest of Europe and the relative flatness of the terrain if follows.

Today the Camino Primitivo starts at the seaport of Acebo, goes through  gorgeous landscapes and impressive old towns, such as the one  (still) called Hospital de Montuoto (Refuge of Mount oto),  A  Fontaneira, with its waterfalls, O Cadavo, -where Alfonso II met and defeated an Islamic army in a field of battle called Matanzaz (slaughters)-, Villabade where a Franciscan order settled in 1457 to take care of pilgrims ( their stunning convent is now attached to the  church and has been declared a “National Treasure”.), Castroverde with its fourteenth century Cathedral dedicated to Saint James, 

Lugo (with its still standing city wall; together  with  Avila in Spain and the town of Luca in Italy –where Puccini was born-  the city walls in these cities are whole and one can walk totally around the ancient cities on top of them). From Lugo the route goes to Melide where, unfortunately, it joins the French Camino, the crowds and the increasing commercialism.

 

Most of the albergues in the Primitivo are in ancient monasteries, and the sleeping quarters are around the cloisters. In many of the monasteries pilgrims still hover around the medieval kitchens preparing a communal dinner. Unlike some monasteries in the French Camino which have been compelled to add facilities, etc., those in the Primitive and Northern Ways remain simple, serene, beautiful, and soul-touching…. the way they must have been way-back-when.

 

Hugs!



Rosina