New member Potugal info needed

[John Casey]

Dennis,
       I returned last week from walking the Portugese route from Porto (or
Oporto as many prefer) to Santiago. I did not walk the coastal route since
the Amigos do Caminho in Porto strongly advised (and offered no information
on) against this route deeming it dangerous as regards its proximity to
main roads and traffic etc. Besides the coastal route there are two main
routes which the Amigos provide information on (1) The Central route via
Barcelos (2) The Interior route via Braga.

I walked the Braga route which though maybe slightly longer than the
Barcelos route is supposedly the more scenic.

Trying to deal with your points in order:

1. If you are still determined to do the coastal route the best maps I have
seen are in the guide to the Portugese Way produced by the Amigos. It is
advertised on their web site but the last time I looked there seemed no way
of ordering it online via the site
(http://www.caminhoportuguesdesantiago.com/). I have browsed through a copy
in the Tourist office in Ponte de Lima and it appears to cover the coastal
route but NOT the other routes and has excellent detailed maps (it is in
both English and Portugese). The cover price was 10 Euros. For the other 2
routes the Amigos in Porto give adequate 'line' maps with place names and
mileages. You can also get similar 'line' maps from the web site
http://welcome.to/caminho-portugues.

2. Yes you can obtain a credencial in Porto

3. For the route I took the section between Sao Concalo and Braga (about
40k) is very poorly marked especially upon entering and exiting towns. The
markers often seem to disappear upon entering town and then you have the
difficulty of finding your way out. Apart from that section the route was
reasonably well marked. Having said that there are also sections of the
camino in Galicia that definately could do with a new lick of paint as well.

4 & 5 In Portugal there are very few Refugios. I believe one has opened in
Sao Pedro de Rates (34k outside Porto if you take the Barcelos route) and
one in Braga (though I did not stay there) if you go the Braga route.
Needless to say this may change in time. The Amigos in Porto will indicate
where accomodation may be got along the way. If you like I can tell you
where I stayed on my route and the costs (15-25 Euro per night)but that is
only relevant for the first 100k if you go via Braga.
For Porto itself I can also recommend a place where a double room was
approximately 45 Euros (with breakfast) though there are many Pensaos down
town
Once in Tui there are conveniently located refugios all the way to Santiago.

6. I'd not say there is any 'must sees' along the route. The Braga route
was a very pretty one in Portugal and is very rural with lots of small
villages etc. To me the only place I would have liked to avoid is the
section in Galicia from about 6k's before Porrino to about 3k's after. It
is hugely industrialised and unpleasent walking.

7. I cannot judge Santiago today with Santiago of 2001. I can compare it
with Santiago 2003. It is basically the same city but being Holy year the
queues for the Pilgrim Office and the Cathedral were very very long at
times. I suggest you get up early (unlike the Spanish) for these. There
also appears to be a huge amount of activity compared to last year as
regards all sorts of 'street entertainment' etc.

8. Not having been in Portugal in October I really could not say though I'd
guess it would be mostly very pleasent. Once in Galicia though I'm sure you
will see rain (I have 2 years running in both June and July).

I hope the above is of some help Dennis but e-mail me direct if I can be of
more help (especially regarding the accomodation bit)

Regards

John