Via de la Plata

[Diane Grust]

Reprinted from the other list (I hope Felipe's does not mind) he is the only
person I know of who has recently walked that route.  Her are some of his
observations.

Saludos a todos:
On the 1st of May I left Sevilla early in the morning. Two months later I
arrived in Finis Terre and walked to the lighthouse. I was light of spirit
but heavy of body. a physical toll had been taken by the daily routine of
trudging at times with a 30 pound pack for 25 to 40 kilometers. I share
some of my observations with you for those whose plans include this Camino
in the future.
1. La Plata is distinct from France's. There are few refugios, fewer
pilgrim discounts, the legs are long and water is sometimes scarce. At
times I carried 4 liters as a precaution.
2. The Amigos Guide from Sevilla indicates various facilities for staying
overnight. Often the keys are in the Ayuntamiento (Gov. Bldg.) or with the
Alcalde (Mayor) or held by a resident of the town or with the local Police.
Be aware that the Gov. Bldg's are closed after 2 PM and often before or not
open at all, the Mayors are difficult to find, residents are elusive, and I
found the local Police to be courteous and helpful but several times without
knowledge of the key's existence. The solution is to spend the night at a
hostel or hotel.
3. At least two times I arrived at a town to find the published facilities
either closed or full. My only recourse was to walk some 15 kilometers more
or take a bus to the next town. I opted for the bus, returned in the
morning without the pack left in a hotel, and I walked the missed portion
with a water bottle and minimum weight.
Also, in one town a floor and ceiling were supplied but no other facilities.
Four of us males chose to stay but the lone female decamped in the first and
only bus to the next town.
4. I found a knowledge of Spanish to be a necessity. Without it I would
have been stranded without information of transportation, hours of service,
locations of lodgings, restaurants, and the like and in general, isolated
from the society that surrounded me. A monolinguist can certainly traverse
the course but one might expect levels of discomfort and inconvenience not
experienced in the North. Often I saw no other pilgrims for several days at
a time. Thrice I stayed in large refugios as the only inmate.
5. I started early in the year in anticipation of Summer's heat in the
South of Spain. I could have initiated the trek 2 weeks before. In such a
case some rain would have been experienced but the punishing heat of late
May and June might have been avoided. In regard to rain I might recount
that on one leg I walked 20 kilometers in driving rain. Boots with mud are
quite heavy. With the mud removed by wading arroyos and creeks the
waterlogged boots are still cumbersome. Upon arrival in the town where the
refugio was located, I discovered that it was 2 kilometers farther on. I
walked out and back to the store. After returning I had done 6 kilometers
more than the leg indicated. That day and several others I had to reach
deep to find the toughness of will to proceed with the "adventure."
6. After 6 weeks of daily drudgery the novelty disappears. Only a decisive
mind permitted me to finish La Plata in Santiago and proceed to Finis Terre.
Toward the last the task of awakening, mounting the pack, and taking those
first few steps was a test of resolve and diligence.
7. The two months were quite expensive compared to Camino France's.
Comparatively very little is provided and much must be paid for. ATM's are
often few and far between and I found some that refused my request for cash.
Walking with cards bearing magnetic strips is interesting as well for the
constant movement tends to wear or distort the strip. One of my cards was
rendered inoperative. Luckily I had some traveler's checks and a spare
debit card. Furthermore, many places don't accept credit cards so "cash is
king."
8. After two months of walking the activity becomes a new habit. Whereas I
ceased abruptly and returned to the States, the absence of this daily
routine engendered a deep depression. An aspirant might anticipate a
similar reaction.

In fine, I aver that walking La Via de la Plata was one of the highlights of
my adult life. But being the second Camino I have traversed, I did not
experience the excitement and focus the France's had engendered. In
addition, the distance of 800 miles and the time spent of 60 days make
accurate recall of specific places and events quite difficult. I am
enormously satisfied to have completed the trip but I doubt whether I would
initiate a repeat performance. If my comments seem unusually negative, know
that my reaction to the deed is not. These observations are not found in
print to the best of my knowledge and may assist an enthusiastic pilgrim in
either preparing or opting out. Felipe Sanchez.