Trip routes - advice please

[Adrienne Patton]

Hi Denise, et al -

There are many route choices to be made.  The Spanish
government has "improved" the Camino a great deal in
the past few years by creating gravel-paved tracks
that mostly follow the roads.  I found these to be
unbearable, and took an alternative whenever possible.
 The gravel stretches were hard on my feet, monotonous
and less soothing than wilder, quieter off-road
trails.

One of the many reasons I recommend the CSJ guide is
that it describes all the choices, so I was able to
get off the road as much as possible, even when the
alternative turn-off was not well marked or obvious.

The route thru Eunate is not really an alternative
route so much as it is a detour.  The CSJ guide
recommends it because of the interesting octagonal
church there.  I chose not to do it, as it was Monday
and the church would be closed, and my companions were
heading straight on.  But it only adds 2 km to your
day, so when you get to the turn-off, decide if you
feel inspired to add it on.  It is supposed to be very
nice.

I walked the road route from Leon to Villadangos del
Paramo because I was expecting to meet up with a
walking companion there.  The walk is unmemorable
(meaning I don't remember it) and the refuge had all
the amenities - good bathrooms, hot water, kitchen -
but was a little dirty.  Had I not been meeting
someone, I would have taken the walker's route - it is
supposed to be nice and pleasantly quiet.  I walked
the next day from Villadangos del Paramo, through
Hospital de Orbigo, to Astorga - probably my longest
day at 29 km.  But you can pick up an off-road
walker's trail on your way out of Hospital which was
lovely.

(Also, prior to Leon, 4 km after Sahagun, you have the
option to take the Calzada de los Peregrinos to
Mansilla de las Mulas - a 2 day trek, staying in
Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, a lovely refugio, the
1st night.  It is an old Roman road - absolutely worth
it.  It is only 2 km total more than the other way.
The other way, according to CSJ, is nothin' but gravel
tracks and picnic tables by the road - don't be swayed
by its designation as the "Real" Camino Frances
route.)

Absolutely, without question, take the high level
route to O'Cebreiro!  While the gravel tracks prior to
this section run along roadways and are merely
unpleasant, the road route to Cebreiro is actually ON
the shoulder of the highway.  Some may say that in bad
weather, the high-level route should be avoided, but I
think walking on a highway shoulder for 15 km with
speeding cars and trucks in the rain is frightening.
When you take the high-level route, you come down and
join the last 3km of the road route before turning off
to small back roads and trails.  That was the scariest
3km of my ENTIRE Camino.  The high-level route is
stunningly beautiful.  It is very steep, but I plodded
slowly along, no cares and no hurry.  I carried my
pack so I wouldn't feel rushed to make it to Cebreiro
in 1 day.  I chose to stay in Ruitelan and I highly
recommend the refuge there (the hospitalero cooked and
sang for me, and let me sleep in the next day).  It is
only 2km further than the refuge in Vega de Valcarce,
and I would say to walk those 2 extra kilometers.
Then you have a short, steep and beautiful 10km climb
to Cebreiro the next day - and the afternoon off to
celebrate!

After Cebreiro, it's a days walk to Triacastela.  Then
the next day, you can choose to go to Sarria in one
day via San Xil (I did this as I was getting low on
time - it was a very pleasant non-gravel-track walk)
or to Sarria in 2 days via Samos.  I heard tale from a
walking companion that went that way that it was very
very nice.  He had a great time and stayed in a hostal
there, though CSJ reports that the monastery refuge is
very gloomy (I generally found monasteries to be very
cold and gloomy, but convents on the other hand are
very inviting - but I digress...)  I think this
decision is more based on the time you have available
and what your companions or other people you meet are
doing and if you don't want to get separated.  All
these decisions can be made on a day-to-day basis.

Hope all this isn't too confusing!
*Adrienne


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