The mountian - getting from st Jean to ronvevalles

[pieter pannevis]

Dear all, the text below is based on personal preferences, but might suggest
some things for pilgrims to be!

Tackling the mountain!

General:
 The walk from St Jean to Roncevalles is 27.4 km you have to climb for 1300
metres and to descend for
900 metres. There are no refuges – you're in open country- and there is only
one hamlet (Honto (5.2 km)).
It has no shop, but I assume you can buy some food things there too. Beware
of the weather factor. (Ask
in the refugio or the locals)
Never walk alone there. Be more or less rested before you leave! If in doubt
stay another day in St Jean of
follow the suggestion to go to Honto (book in advance (05 59 37 11 17) this
is not a refugio but a "gite"
so can book there (if in trouble ask the tourist board (centre of town, main
square) to do it for you!))

Preparations:
Know were you're going. Be familiar what to expect and look on a map to see
where you're going.
Nothing is worse than the feeling of getting lost with some physical
problems into the bargain.
Buy some food –also for the next day, (the first bar is in Burgeute at 3
km's from Roncevalles)  for there is
no shop or breakfast in Roncevalles – unless you stay in a hotel there- in
St Jean or Bayonne/Pamplona.
Sugary things/chocolate things and some biscuits. You find several small
shops in St Jean. Even a
"traiteur" (Cross the river and head for Arneguy; it's on your right-hand
opposite a car park between a
baker- find some nice things there too- and a bank.)  Site for pieces of
pizza, ham and other good things.
Have some water with you (at least 0.75 lrts). You might consider buying a
walking stick, but perhaps with
all these "new things" going on, it's too much. Have some Compeed or
Moleskin with you for preventive
taping. Have all your things in your backpack in plastic bags – needs by
needs-. Have a camera (and film)
– all wrapped up in a mere plastic bag preventing rain or dust coming in-
and water and some biscuits and
toilet paper ready in a daypack at your belt, so there is no need to take
off your back pack.

Setting Out:
If staying in a hotel; settle your account that night. So you can leave
early!
Start as early as possible (still twilight). Have some kind of breakfast
before you leave. (A drink and a bite
at least). Do not tighten you shoelaces too much, you feet will swell!
Do not start in F1 pole postion . Start easy and enjoy. Adjust your backpack
on going up (more or less
immediately) going up take smaller paces than you used to. The momentum of
transferring weight is
harder on your knees and more difficult when not done so. Walk for half an
hour and have a 5 minutes
rest. Or one hour and 10 minute to a quarter of an hour rest
Keep eating and drinking when you go – some sultanas and nuts will do very
nicely- drink some sips of
water even if you're not hungry -. Never see the moment you'll "behind
schedule" and feeling thirsty,
hungry and dizzy. If so take a rest have some sugary things and a drink. Do
not gulp; just few sips at a
time. After 3 hours have a good stop. If the weather is fine enjoy it. Have
your goodies and enjoy a semi-
lunch. If you want adjust your shoestrings. If blister are coming up or you
feeling pressure points,
consider "preventive taping" have a look at your map to see where you are.
(And where to go now)
After 20 mutes start again – oops – and head on. If you're getting in
trouble walking. Set yourself a goal. !
That rock or tree in the distance for next rest if there reconsider to have
another goal. And so on! Keep
nibbling biscuits, nuts and an occasional sip of water. Your body is your
motor to get you to Fisterra so
keep it fuelled, do not wait to get the "red light".
By now you must be approaching the "Cruz" of Maria. Do not be tempted in bad
weather to take a road
to the right a little bit earlier as this takes you down the mountain to the
river and Arneguy. It's only UP.
Have a rest there or keep to your schedule. Certainly look back on the
distances you already made and on
the wonderful scenery (if there). Never try to keep up with other pilgrims.
Maintain your own speed!
About midday – depending on your time of departure you must be seeing the
cross at your right hand side
in the grass that leads you off the tarmac into a grass track, that leads
between to rocks to a barbed  wire
fence (the border) and continue. The very border is marked with a fountain.
Enjoy your lunch there.
Take of your backpack and check your feet (if your in a habit of doing so;
some people prefer not to take
there shoes off till all is done).
Put your feet up and enjoy a good rest! (If possible)
Readjust your shoelaces if necessary. Loosen you backpack on the shoulders a
bit as it's no going up so
stiffly anymore while you walk partly under trees.
For a good hour you will stay after passing the border more or less on the
same altitude and then a track
leads you down into the woods (below you can see the grey slates of
Roncevalles)
Readjust you shoelaces so to prevent your feet (toes) to shift to the front
of your shoe. Loosen your
backpack shoulder things to have the backpack more lose and acting as a
counterweight.  Break your way
by making "z "courses. If you have a stick it's an extra brake. It might be
rather slippery!
Continue drinking and nibbling. Sugar might be of great help to you here as
you're draining your resources
by now!
Coming down you'll find the river and cross it, coming into the main square.
The pilgrim's office is on
your right hand side and opens at four.
Congratulation: you've made it!

For maps or other information please email me of –list

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