Camino Comments Part 2

[Jack Christensen]

Hi all,
Jack again.  I'm glad that some of you found my comments on my recent
completion of the Camino between Leon and Santiago useful, and you're
welcome to share them with anyone.  Since there were several requests for
additional information, I'll just respond to the list.

SUPPLIES - Believe it or not, Spain is a modern country!  As you pass
through a medium or large city I think you'll find everything you need that
is critical for your walk.  I found replacement socks to replace ones I
lost, and they were identical to the ones I bought in the US.  Others I met
bought clothing and even boots.  Walking sticks, scallop shells, guide
books.  They are all available at reasonable prices.    Scallop shells were
$1.50 complete with neck strap.  Many cities have tourist info offices which
can direct you not only to rooms, but also stores providing items you need.
Fellow pilgrims and hospitaleros are also good sources for this type of
information.

WALKING STICKS - I had never used a stick before and I've done lots of
mountain hiking.  I thought I'd try it. Although I took a collapsible
Austrian walking stick from the US, I saw wooden ones in shops and at some
refuges, some complete with gourds and scallop shells.  I recall they were
around $3.  I'm sold on using one for my future walks.  Some pilgrims used
two sticks and many used none.

FEET AGAIN - I carried moleskin and have used it frequently in the past,
although I didn't need it on this trip.  If you feel a spot rubbing and get
to it immediately, moleskin works prior to blisters forming.  According to
the instructions, Compeed can be used like moleskin and can also be used
after blisters form, which I wouldn't recommend with moleskin.  I used
Vaseline on my feet each day, more liberally where I've had problems in the
past, and lightly over other areas.  I squeezed about an inch out of the
tube for each foot.  I think it helped, but how can I be sure??  It
certainly kept my skin supple and prevented its drying out, which is a
problem for us older folks.

BINOCULARS AND WEIGHT - My vision isn't great and I really missed studying
birds I saw and trying to identify them.  I regret not taking my relatively
lightweight binoculars (12 oz).  I can think of 12 oz worth of clothes and
other stuff I could have left behind.

COST - Frankly, I didn't bother keeping track as it's so inexpensive.  When
I was on the road I imagine it cost me maybe $15 per day with donations.
With the exception of lunches, I always ate out.  Hotels will, of course,
raise the price.  A fellow pilgrim taught me a valuable lesson.
Occasionally he'd take his lunch off the trail to a nice spot, take a nap or
relax, write in his diary, enjoy the view, listen to sounds around him, etc.
You're allowed to enjoy yourself!

WOMEN ALONE - I recall two young women walking alone that I got to know.
Neither mentioned a concern about walking alone.  One of them wanted to walk
alone during the day and I recall walking a short time with the other one
(who was overweight and ended up using the bus to complete her trip because
of knee problems).  I met two Dutch retired women (65) who had walked alone,
but together, from Le Puy in France, a goodly distance. There was also an
older Spanish woman having terrible foot problems who walked alone most of
the time and as long as she could each day, and then took a taxi or bus the
rest of the way to the next refuge.

AGE - I thought I'd be the oldest geezer on the Camino at 62.  I met a
number of people older than I.  Since retirees have more schedule
flexibility, they probably make up a larger percentage of the people walking
in May, The oldest I recall was a Brazilian of 69 who had a triple bypass
and was making the trip.

WEATHER - I only had one day of continuous rain in 15 days and several
others where I broke out the poncho for an hour.  May temperatures this year
were ideal for hiking (mostly 50's and 60's during the day, but a couple of
days in the 70's).  We had snow overnight in O Cebreiro, but by the next day
it was mostly gone and not too cold.  Weather information for July and
August from the internet shows the potential of some hot hiking weather, so
be prepared. I noted that at least 2 of the 3 monuments I saw for pilgrims
who died along the way (I assume from heart attacks) gave their dates of
death as August.

SLEEPING BAGS - I used a lightweight (1 1/2 lb) down bag.  It was perfect in
May and I was never cold.  A sleeping sheet would probably work in the
summer - you could cover it with your jacket if necessary - and would save
weight.  Occasionally you'll find refuges with blankets and pillows, but
don't count on it.  They get washed once a year whether they need it or not,
so you may want something between you and them.

SANTIAGO ROOMS - The deli at 80 Rue de Vilar manages a number of rooms.  I
stayed in one for 2500 pts which was a little noisy (earplugs to the
rescue). Other pilgrims I talked with found rooms through the tourist info
center on Rue de Vilar. The pilgrim office where you get your Compostela is
at 1 Rue de Vilar, so you'll get to know the street.

ANIMALS & ASSISTANCE - I saw a pair of Frenchmen on horses and was surprised
to see stables in the refuge in O Cebreiro.  I didn't see any other animal
assistance or any other provisions for animals (I didn't really look for
them though).  This is a strenuous trip and if you are concerned about your
physical ability to complete the trip, you probably shouldn't attempt it.
I did see pilgrims who walked as far as their physical condition allowed
each day and took taxis or the bus to the next refuge.

Bien Camino!
Jack