Lessons from the Camino

[Jack Christensen]

Hi all,
I just finished my Camino experience - Leon to Santiago.  I had a wonderful
time and am already thinking about doing the St. Jean to Leon section.
Although I'm certainly not an expert, I do have a few comments in regards to
questions I've seen asked and my experience. (I'm 62 years old)

FEET - I'd say this is the primary concern, unless you want your pilgrimage
to be about blisters.  I wore boots which I broke in for two months prior to
going.  I saw all sorts of other footwear that seemed to be working for
people as well.  I had no blisters.  Many of the problems I saw were related
to poor preparation, both of body and boots.  Old, worn out footwear falling
apart, new footwear not broken in, etc.  Whatever you choose, make sure it's
broken in and works for you.  I had Compeed patches I bought in the US -
only one size was available.  I ended up giving them away and saw that they
were really too big.  I'd recommend buying them in a Farmacia in Spain. I
had a pair of Teva sandals I used in the shower and for walking in town.
They were great!

GEAR - I had a backpack weighing 20 lb without water.  I realized that I
could (and should) have taken less.  I could have saved a couple of shirts
by having colored undershirts double as T shirts, etc.  What I really
missed, however, was a pair of binoculars.

MILES - I averaged 15 per day which was OK for me. While I'm sure some
people are capable of more, I saw some macho types who were humbled, and
blubbering in the night by trying 30 to 40 kM per day.  Shin splints,
terrible blisters, infections, exhaustion.  Unless you're into self
flagellation, be realistic about your capabilities and what you can do with
joy.

COMPOSTELA REQUIREMENTS - While I had two sellos per day, the pilgrim's
bureau was quite casual and I'm confident less would have been OK.  As far
as questions about reasons, the form you fill out asks you your reasons.
Simply stating "religious" as everyone else who had filled in the form did
was enough. I was asked no questions and received my Compostela.

MONEY - ATM's are ubiquitous.  I was charged $1 per transaction.
Occasionally my card was refused and I used another machine.  I had a VISA
card I could draw on as a backup and I needed this in the Netherlands, but
not in Spain.

REFUGE COST - I found that many of them were "free".  I made it a practice
to donate 300 pts, and was disappointed that many of the pilgrims I saw
weren't willing to make a donation.

THEFT - I always dropped my backpack in the refuge prior to going
sightseeing.  I never had anything stolen or heard of anyone losing
anything.

REFUGE IN SANTIAGO - I personally wouldn't and didn't use it, especially
after I looked at it as I walked by.  Barracks equipped to handle 2000
people?? If you want to recreate your military experience go for it.  And,
it's 5 kM away from the city center as well. Accommodations right in the
heart of Santiago are available for 2500 pts for a single ($15 per night).
It's a wonderful city to be downtown in and worth the expense.

REFUGES VS HOTELS - Although I was prepared to stay in the occasional hotel,
except for Santiago, I didn't.  As a solo hiker, I really enjoyed the
interaction with other pilgrims at the end of the day, although I hiked
alone most days (my preference).  The refuge is where dinner arrangements
are made, experiences and feelings discussed, medical problems worked on,
etc.  If you stay in hotels you'll miss the socialization part of the
Camino.

GUIDEBOOKS - I got a copy of Milan Bravo Lozano's book from the Spanish
Tourist Bureau.  I did have to beg, but I did get it.  It didn't come with
the plastic neck carrying pouch you get if you buy it in Spain.  I tore out
the maps and used them with the Confraternity of Saint James Guide.

"And it was then that in the depths of sleep someone breathed to me, 'You
alone can do it, come immediately'". Jules Supervielle

This is a wonderful trip.  You'll be supported by the Spanish people and
other pilgrims.  Enjoy the experience.

Jack