Leaving next week

[Elyn Aviva]

When I walked the Camino in 1982, there really were no refugios; we slept out
under the stars, stayed in outbuildings or school rooms opened up for us by
the local mayor or some other person, or stayed in inexpensive hostals. When
I walked it with my husband in 1997, we had planned to stay in refugios but
soon realized we could never arrive early enough (by 11 am in August,
starting Aug. 1 from St. Jean/Roncesvalles) to get a place to stay--we were
part of a huge wave of pilgrims who all began at the same time. We soon fell
behind the rest, but by then we had mailed off our sleeping bags and were
staying in inexpensive hostals once again. When I walked the last 100 miles
in 2000, I traveled with a group (and a support vehicle for wounded/weary
people and bags), and we always stayed at inexpensive hostals.

I think except for France few people would recommend you carry a tent. The
worst that might happen is you sleep out under the stars or under the shelter
of a church portico in your sleeping bag/pile blanket, with a plastic tarp
under you.

The water is quite drinkable in all of Spain, as far as I know. I never drank
from the "potable" water fountains along the way but I'm told they are safe.

As to getting sick: Spaniards are wonderfully helpful. The pharmacists
dispense all sorts of drugs without prescription--tell them your symptoms (we
had some odd rashes that were difficult to describe!) and they will give you
something powerful and helpful. A bit of "the runs" is not uncommon at first,
given the change in food (much more olive oil!), the exertion, and the heat.
So if you have a favorite remedy, you might take that. More important--most
important--are the feet, and there's been plenty said about footcare. Do be
aware that the pharmacies stock something called Compeed (you can buy a
limited assortment of sizes here in large drugstores under Dr. School or
Bandaid brand)--a gel-like substance covered with a "skin" and with adhesive
on one side. It does wonders for hotspots before they become blisters. Once yo
u have an open blister or loose skin, however, that will be pulled off if you
use Compeed and try to remove it. (Whew, what a sentence!) So the best thing
is prevention.

Buen Camino--
Elyn Aviva

Buen Camino--
Elyn