<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Of course, for the darker side of pilgrimage-related art, one shouldn't miss viewing Goya's Peregrinacion a la Fuente de San Isidro, at the Prado. It's one of his most disturbing and most amazing "black paintings".<BR>
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Christopher Weimer</FONT></HTML>