[Gocamino] German pilgrims

[Rosina]

Hello you all,
It seems that  wherever I am I  always gravitate to Camino-related places and people as I did in my recent visit to Germany from which I've just returned.
To begin with, the facilities, orientation, accommodations and support for Camino pilgrims in Germany can only be dreamed about.
It turns out that people have been going to Santiago from Germany in pilgrimage since the eleventh century, and that pilgrims  have enjoyed  church-organized assistance and nurturing since then. 
While attending the Richard Wagner musical festival in Bayreuth I visited several albergues and a Camino confraternity in the region, (Upper Franconia in  Bavaria), and was very much impressed.
It appears that at this time potential pilgrims are being encouraged to wait until next year to undertake the pilgrimage. There is a sense that this Holy Year the Camino has acquired  an unseemly carnival-fair-commercial atmosphere in the environs of Santiago. (Among other discouraging reports the newspapers had articles  about businesses in Santiago protesting the long lines of pilgrims waiting to go up to get their Compostelas, or waiting to get into the Cathedral. The protesters  claimed that such lines obstructed entrance to their shops and were preventing them from partaking in the economic benefits to be cashed in from the huge number of Holy Year pilgrims; there were also articles about  abuses on the part of avaricious restaurants, service providers, etc. etc.)
On at least three occasions I heard those who maintain the albergues and promote the Camino bemoan and condemn such goings-on;  they suggested that the essential purpose of a Camino pilgrimage would be better served next year when, hopefully, the conditions will go back to providing the tranquility  for spiritual exploration, reflection and growth.
Nevertheless, pilgrims kept going and going from the region, mostly by bicycle, including, most surprisingly, a group of English pilgrims led by a Protestant minister from a church in Hanover Square in London!!!!!
Well, the segments of the Camino that traverse  that part of Bavaria are impressively developed, well marked, very welcoming and superbly attended to; also, that area is one of the most beautiful and invigorating anywhere with its gorgeous scenery and super-clean air.  The whole area looks like a series of breath-taking paintings of landscapes. I would imagine that in the winter, with the mountains and valleys covered in snow, it must be even more beautiful, if such a thing were possible. 
Anyway, not far from Bayreuth there is the town of Bamberg which seems to be the center of Santiago Camino in the area. The town is extraordinary in that it is the only one in Bavaria that did not suffer damage from the last two World wars. Reportedly, the town is much older than Berlin, and its medieval buildings, particularly the churches and monasteries are in magnificent condition;- the only Pope buried north of the Alps is buried in the Bamberg Cathedral since he was from the area-. Bamberg also has a Saint James church with many statutes and paintings referring back to ancient pilgrims; this church supports the pilgrims albergue and most groups pilgrimages from the area begin there after a benediction service.
The section of the Camino that traverses Franconia begins in Bamberg and goes on to Lichtenfels, eight towns and eight albergues away.  Because the albergues are connected to churches, they seem to always be on top of one mountain or another, which means that the effort includes a lot of climbing (I walked one of the segments and could hardly make it). True, the view from the top is is worth the effort, and then some.... but I can only admire the [physical strength and prodigious energy of those  who can climb those mountains, come down, and then climb again, over and over.
The albergues, absolutely free, also provide food, including "horse radish" soup that is sure to clear one's sinuses for weeks (I wonder if that's the secret.... together with the drops of "liquid oxygen") and a radish which is bigger than a good-sized banana and is cut in coils,  salted and vinagered, (I think) and served with bread and butter. (!)  While I rarely pay attention to food, those things did catch my attention, as did the variety of very doughy bread dumplings with their potato, mushroom, etc., sauces.
It also seemed that every small town where there is an albergue has both a monastery (Bamberg has several) and a beer brewery. A very noteworthy one is in a town called Vierzehnheiligen (which means 14 saints, or martyrs, from medieval times) the church there is awesome, the gardens of the monastery other-wordly and the small priests' cemetery, open-like on a side of the church, simply unbelievable.  When I find someone to upload the pictures I took so that they may be posted I'll make them available. I just haven't the words to properly describe such places.
But I can tell you that the beer brewed in the little factory a few meters away was delicious.
Something else that caught my attention is the fact that while by general albergue standards the albergues in that area could  be considered  3 or four stars hotels,  their albergue seals are ever so simple.
I've already sent cards to some of you with representations, and seals of some of them.
The Vierzehnheiligen monks were kind enough to give me a bunch of postcards that show the map of the upper Franconia "Jakobsweg" (Santiago Camino) and the seal of their albergue when I mentioned that I'd like to share them with fellow pilgrims.
If you would like to have one of these cards just send me your postal address and I'll be more than happy to send it to you.

One a personal note.... now back in the reservation... , does any of you know of a restaurant where those Bavarian bread dumplings and/or long radishes may be found in New York City? I'll trade such information by telling you where "Pimentos al Padron" are served here.... Yup!

Hugs!

Rosina