[Gocamino] Non Spanish Restaurants

Sat Mar 14 17:00:23 PDT 2009

I also am curious and would like to hear about "foreign" cuisine in Spain, although I suspect the offerings in smaller towns and cities are often of the sort Rosina was talking about--those sub-par "Italian" restaurants in León. The regional cuisines of Spain are wonderful, provide plenty of variety and, I suspect, are under-sampled by pilgrims. When we walked the Camino Francés, my daughter and I tried to get off the "beaten path" and ask local people to recommend restaurants where they like to eat. Unfortunately, the wardrobe limitations of living out of a backpack may at times limit the level of quality of the restaurant to which one may aspire. "Casual attire" is inevitable on the Camino, but in some places, people still dress up on Sundays. In Pamplona, we ate at a really nice family restaurant for Sunday lunch---we weren't carrying our packs and had "disguised" our "pilgrim look." We were the only non-Spaniards in the place and noticed the proprietress turn away people who carried packs and walking sticks. Unfortunately, some restaurants located right along the walking route do cater to a mostly tourist or non-Spanish clientele and charge, what we began to call, inflated "Camino tourist" prices. It is a good idea to walk to another part of town or even just around the corner to find something else. You may find you pay less money for better quality.
We ate at a wonderful restaurant in Villafranca del Bierzo, called Casa Mendes--- located at the far end of town and not on the main square. The menu was "typical Spanish," but not the "typical" I suspect most pilgrims start feeling a need to vary. For example, there was not ONE SINGLE dish on the menu that contained pork. In the land of jamón serrano and chorizo, finding a pork-free eatery in Spain was a surprise. It wasn't advertised as such---it just was that way. We also slept at the Casa Mendes pensión that night, last minute arrangement--long story--, and the owner was kind enough to accommodate us for a late lunch, second seating, even though we didn't have a dining reservation--probably necessary on a weekend.
Our only "foreign" dining experience, outside of Madrid or Barcelona or other large cities, was at a Chinese restaurant on our way into Nájera---passed it coming into town---it was just your basic Chinese restaurant, including customers waiting for take-out orders.  If you have a hankering for an egg roll or something Szechuan, it was pretty basic---nothing special. We were tired of the same-old-same-old and happened to walk by at the right time of day. 

My daughter, who definitely does NOT have a cast iron stomach and became ill a couple of times---one of which required hospitalization---decided our rule would be to avoid restaurants where there are what she calls "picture menus," that is, photographs of the dishes served, along with the written menu. In smaller towns, this may the only type of place available in the center of town main square, for example, Belorado. It doesn't always mean the food is bad (although that can certainly be the case), just that the place may cater more to non-Spanish speakers than local people.
Rosina, that was good advice your friend gave you about eating what the "natives" eat. For those who feel they need the convenience of the "picture menu," the goal of enjoying better culinary offerings is as good an excuse as any for people to brush up on their Spanish before they walk the Camino. With regard to the latter---we noticed in several instances a distinct expression of relief on the faces of shopkeepers or restaurant personnel when they realized communication with us would not be a struggle. Although many Spanish people speak English, not everyone does--- and although travelers are good for business, it must be tiring at times to deal with all their different languages. 
Buen Camino,Deborah
> To: guha2005 at hotmail.com
> Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 16:18:51 -0400
> From: blaroli at aol.com
> CC: GoCamino at oakapple.net; saintjames at yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Gocamino] Non Spanish Restaurants
> 
> The food in Spain changes?incredibly from region to region; in the French Camino alone the variety is daunting. You cannot find "migas" in Burgos, "vieras" in Leon, "pimentos de Padron" anywhere outside Galicia, etc. etc. etc.?
> I have stayed at the Boccalino hotel in Leon which is right across San Isidro and around the corner from the Cathedral. While the hotel is nice, the location great, and the service excellent I cannot say the same for the two "Italian" restaurants attached to it; both were pretty mediocre, although they seemed to be popular with young people who eat pizza and the like.?
> Abutting the same little square in front of the church (and museum)?there are two excellent Spanish restaurants; on the side streets; perhaps the high quality of their offering has to do with the fact that an appeals and administrative court is right there and the lawyers, etc., patronize those restaurants.
> I've been told by friends, family and doctors that I have a stomach lined with in steel.... in fact, I never get sick from eating things, but I did get terribly sick in Leon after eating at a fancy "French" restaurant and in Burgos after eating at an "Italian" one.
> In my youth a world-travelling friend gave me a piece of advice:?"when you go to another country eat what the natives eat.... they know".? Sure enough, ?I have done so everywhere and have only gotten sick when I've strayed from that eminently logical principle.... Of course, restaurants and coffee shops that cater to tourists fall outside the general norm which. is why the "natives" avoid them.??
> I would just keep an eye to see where the local working people go for lunch, etc., and go there.... In the restaurant would look to see what the majority of the patrons are eating, would?try to find out what it is and would order it. Don't be shy about asking. Most patrons, and waiters, like to talk about their food. A bit of advice: if a person dining offers you? taste of her/his food during the explanation do NOT refuse it..... even if it is octopus....to refuse it would be an insulting discourtesy. Just close your eyes, swallow, and "think of England". Most of the time you'll love it.
> Hugs!
> Rosina
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Glenn Jilek <guha2005 at hotmail.com>
> To: blaroli at aol.com
> Sent: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 3:31 pm
> Subject: RE: [Gocamino] Non Spanish Restaurants
> 
> 
> For example, because of my query, I have heard that Boccalino's in Leon is an excellent Italian Restaurant the is not to be missed, and is near the Cathedral.? At that point, I?have enjoyed a good 3 weeks of Spanish menus...a little?variety is the spice of life they say.? This next time I will sample my first Italian meal in Spain while passing through Leon.
> ?
> Glenn
> ?
> = 
> _______________________________________________
> Gocamino mailing list
> Gocamino at oakapple.net
> http://mailman.oakapple.net/mailman/listinfo/gocamino