[Gocamino] Info on Albergues

Charles O'Brien chasobrien at gmail.com
Mon Oct 15 08:01:47 PDT 2007


In Santiago now. Got here a few hours ago. Very tired. Envy those who did
the Camino Frances. (I did it in 8/98) Did the Camino Portugues. Way
different experience. Later  Chuck O´B

On 10/14/07, Sil <sillydoll at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> There are many new albergues that don't yet appear in any of the guides
> and
> in some places scouts come out to meet pilgrims with leaflets and
> brochures
> on their new albergues.
> * We stayed in 32 albergues (refuges) along the camino Frances.
> * Only two places didn't offer blankets - all the others handed out
> blankets
> to those who asked for them later in the day or evening.
> * The majority charge between 3 and 5 euro and eight were 'donativo' - we
> gave 5 euro at these. The most expensive was 9 euro (Palas do Rei).
> * 7 places offered an evening meal for a small charge (5 or 6 euro) or a
> dontation. Sometimes the hospitalero cooked the meal and sometimes
> pilgrims
> were asked to help with the cooking. (All help with the washing up.)
> * You can reserve beds ahead at all of the private albergues listed on the
> Red de Albergues leaflet. (Downloadable at at
> http://www.redalberguessantiago.com) These charge between 7 and 9 euro.
> * Most municipal and church sponsored albergues have curfews - lights off
> by
> 10pm. Many also request that you do not turn on lights before 7am in the
> morning. Private albergues have less stringent rules.
> * Most albergues will only allow you to stay for one night but places like
> San Bol and Manjarin do not have rules and will allow you to stay for as
> long as you like.
> * Many albergues have internet facilities as do the local cafe-bars. Some
> are free but with a restricted time and some are coin operated.
> * Most of the albergues were clean and the only albergue we stayed in that
> was disgusting was at Melide. It was reported that Zubiri is pretty grim
> and
> the municipal albergue at Arca is much like Melide.
> My favourite albergues?
> Villamayor de Monjardin: Slept on mattresses on the floor, had a communal
> meal, wonderful hospitaleros.
> Granon: Slept on mattresses high up in a bell tower of a church. We had to
> sing for our supper! "We are, we are...HUNGRY!" to the tune of Queen's We
> will Rock You.  The donation box has a sign, "Leave what you can, take
> what
> you need." Wonderful hospitaleros.
> Tosantos: Slept on mattresses on the floor. Helped cook the communal meal.
> Evening blessing in the attic. Wonderful hospitalero who sang the "Chant
> D'un Pelerin Le Compostelle' before dinner - with us pregrinos all chiming
> in for the Ultreia! Ultreia! e sus eia! chorus.
> Arroya San Bol: No electricity, no running water (you can drink the water
> from a healing spring in a field at the back), no toilet (use the field
> lower down!) but does have double bunks. A young Rastafarian Italian chef
> cooked us the best meal we had on the camino. Only sleeps ten but never
> turns anybody away. Many musical instruments if you feel like a jamming
> session but be warned, if the musos are there you could be seranaded until
> 4
> in the morning!
> Bercianos del real Camino: Old spring beds in a straw and mud building.
> You
> have to watch the sun set before you can have dinner, cooked by Amor the
> hospitalero.
> Manjarin: No electricity, no running water (except for a spring across the
> road), a long-drop toilet and mattresses in a stone barn. Meal cooked for
> a
> donation by the hospitalero eaten under lamplight. Templar ceremony at
> about
> 11am conducted by Tomas, the last of the Templar Knights. Wouldn't have
> missed it for the world.
> Ave Fenix: at Villafranca del Bierzo is the home of Jesus Jato and his
> family and although there is a municipal albergue as you walk into the
> town,
> carry on to Ave Fenix where you will have a communal meal, perhaps a Reiki
> healing session performed by Jesus and, if you are lucky, witness a
> quemada
> (fire water) ceremony!
> Note: Most pilgrims follow the stages listed by the various guides which
> lead to larger towns or cities. The smaller, less populated albergues are
> often more friendly and I would recommend to any wanna-be peregrinos to
> walk
> through the larger towns and cities and head for the smaller villages. And
> remember, even if the guide says "no beds, no running water, no
> electricity,
> no toilet" you will still be sleeping on a mattress, under a roof, with
> your
> meal being cooked on a gas stove, using lamplight or candles. It beats
> camping out anytime!
> Pilgrim hugs,
> Sil
>
> --
> Sil
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