[Gocamino] recent camino experience

[Amy Beckford]

Hi All,
I joined this listserv before leaving on the Camino de Santiago in hopes of 
gathering information and advice, and you have certainly provided many 
helpful tidbits.  Now that I have just returned from a month in Spain, I 
wanted to share with you the realities of my own Camino, in hopes that you 
may gather something helpful from my experiences.  Just keep in mind that my 
friend and I hiked from Leon to Santiago during the first half of July.  
Also, we tended to favor the private albergues (5-10 euros) rather than the 
large municipal ones.

1.  Leave your sleeping bag at home unless it is particularly small and 
light.  In every place we stayed, aside from one, we were given a blanket 
and a pillow.  Pilgrims who hiked the earlier portion had the same comforts. 
  A simple sleeping bag liner seems like a more practical item to take.
2.  We only encountered "crowding" in the albergues once.  There were three 
of us and only two beds.  Although previous establishments pulled out mats 
to make more room on the floor, on this occasion we were sent up the hill.  
It turned out to be a much nicer place to stay in the long run!  However, it 
did cost 8 euros rather than 2, so some Europeans were choosing to sleep in 
the nearby field.  Overall, though, we worried about all the reports of 
crowding for nothing.
3.  Good luck seeing the botafumiero swing.  We pushed ourselves to arrive 
for the Sunday pilgrim mass, hoping to increase our chances.  Plus, we were 
there during the two week festival prior to July 25.  Even though we asked 
all kinds of people when it would swing, all information we were given was 
wrong, and we were always sent to a different place to find out the 
schedule.  During our three days there, we know there were at least two 
masses when it was used, but generally the pilgrims were disappointed.
4.  We had great tickets on Spanair from Santiago to Madrid for 31 euros 
each.  I reserved these a couple of months in advance from home, so they are 
not simply a special pilgrim deal.
5.  Everyone has their own method of foot care, so here are a few you can 
try.  One, use duct tape on hot spots.  It stays in place for some and moves 
for others.  Two, buy Compeeds once you get there.  They are amazing and 
better than second skin.  Plus, every pharmacy along the way has them, 
although they are not cheap.  Three, use preventative wrappings of cloth 
tape, although you will need to be thorough.  Four, every hour, when you are 
wisely taking a pack break, take off your boots and air out your feet and 
socks.  Keeping everything comfortable and dry helps to prevent blisters.
6.  I didn't take walking sticks because I have never bothered with them as 
a backpacker.  Fortunately, my friend shared hers with me, so we each had 
one.  I would recommend taking a telescoping one with you, especially if you 
can always remember to take it with you after a panaderia break!
7.  There is a great, small topographical map of the Camino available before 
Leon.  If you can find one for yourself, you will appreciate it.
8.  Consider staying in the albergue in La Faba if you want to break up the 
climb to O Cebreiro.
9.  I was so cold in Santiago that I had to buy a sweatshirt in addition to 
the warm layer I already had with me.  If you imagine Spain as hot and 
sunny, which it certainly is in the south where I nearly melted, just be 
sure not to underestimate chilly Galicia.
10.  As people who hiked "only" 200 kilometers, we managed to fill up every 
space on our passports.  We wanted to collect as many stamps as possible, 
knowing we would end up with an amazing souvenir.  If you would like to do 
the same, ask everywhere "Tiene un sello?" since the answer will usually be 
"Si!"  One caution though--there are none to be had in Santiago, other than 
in the Pilgrim Office.

Buen Camino!
Amy

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