Odds and ends on the Camino.

[Jeffrey Crawley]

A few random notes that occurred while I was trying to remember what
happened in the first three weeks of the Camino.

Don't try Janine in SJPP as a weather forcaster - her prediction of light
rain followed by wind was wrong, we had thunder and lightning instead!

Check the notice boards before you move on - the one at Roncesvalles said
that Larrosoana would be closed for a fiesta.  If I'd seen that I wouldn't
have walked past Zubiri only to fine Larrasoana closed, all the hostals
full, Trinidad de Arre closed and had to walk into Pamplona for a bed. 40km
on the second day was stupid.

Don't trust the label - I re-proofed my rain jacket with a new product
before going but didn't check to see how effective it was, in the above
mentioned thunder storm it soaked up rain like a Kleenex.

The Roncal family refugio at Cizur Minor is being extended around the rear
to be ready for next year and looks like being very well appointed.

Marcelino Lobato was handing out free walking sticks, biscuits, nuts and
sellos in the park as you leave Logrono although not in costume.

In Belorado there is a lovely new refugio about 150m along from the
municipal - Cuarto Cantones, 4 euros and they have a washer, a dryer and a
BBQ in the garden! Recommended.

Restauration work at San Juan de Ortega is progressing well, with the
setting sun illuminating the fascia beautifully (I was two weeks too early
to see the rays of light trace the figures on the column head inside).

Victorino Diez is still in place in Hontanas but has a rack to hold the ham
joint while he carves it rather than holding it against a very dirty
cardigan (which he now wears under an equally dirty apron).  The washing up
water didn't seem to have been changed since 2001 but I've never heard of
anybody being ill after eating or drinking there!

At San Anton just before Castrojeriz, the ruins of the convent have now a
free, tented refugion in place, enjoyed by all who stayed there.

At St Martin del Camino (just before Hospital de Orbigo) there is a new
refugion by the water tower, a large open room, reasonable kitchen and a lot
cleaner than Hospital!

Astorga now boasts what is possibly the best equipped refugio on the
Camino - San Javier, a short walk from the Cathederal and owned by Gaspar of
Hotel Gaudi and Posada Gaspar (in Rabanal) fame. A beautiful conversion with
lots of showers, WC's, a kitchen and a sunken sitting area around a log
burning fire place, courtyard with washer and dryer and tables and chairs.
Run by Gaspar's son this is a 5 star refugio, 6 euros and you can eat in the
main dining room of the Gaudi Hotel with your credential for 9 euros - thank
you Gaspar, it made my birthday!

Rabanal's Gaucelmo refugio is still one of the best though and thanks to Jim
for the hospitality.

There is a new, private refugio in Sarria at 31Rua Mayor, just carry on up
the hill from the municipal.  Well appointed, there were 6 of us in a room
with beds for 42.  Directly opposite is the Pilgrim's office where you can
get a new, free, credential if that's where you are starting from or need
more space for sellos. It's rather big though at A5 size and so damages
easily.

It was a shock to arrive at Portomarin to see the refugio being demolished
before our eyes. The old overflow rooms across the street were still in
operation but with limited facilities and rather dirty.  The the very nice
lady from the Consello says a new and better refugio will be ready by
April/May next year.

Just before Melide don't forget to visit the church of San Juan de Furelos
and see the most amazing crucifix on the Camino and, I'm sorry but whoever
said that it depicts a calm and welcoming Christ, His hand extended to us is
wrong.  That is a body of somebody tortured, wracked with pain and symbolic
of His suffering in His last days on earth, nothing will convince me
otherwise.  Whoever carved the figure ( local artist apparantly) knew about
pain and suffering.

Finally, because this is getting rather long, there is a new refugion IN
Santiago about 100 metres from the Cathederal but I lost the piece of paper
with the details on!

More later (if you want it) if/when I can remember it!

regards to all

Jeffrey

¡NUNCA MAIS!