First day made easy + starting in St Jean

[Remi Loyer]

Sorry for the rambling and pragmatic spiel, but the 1st day is a blur and I
feel it really is the only day that you need an action plan for.

The idea that was recently mentioned of leaving your 'stuff' and going
packless from SJPDP to Roncervalles seems like a good one, but when you
consider the things you SHOULDN'T be without on a long day hike over what
are surprisingly big hills, you're not really packless after all. And if you
can make it a whole day & night without these things, why not lighten your
entire pilgrimage experience by not taking that extra stuff along in the
first place?

So if you carry:
 some food (none is available from SJPDP to Roncervalles except if you stay
in Untto)
 water (also sparse when we walked in Sept)
 warm clothes (you are going to hike up to 1500+ meters with high exposure)
 basic first aid + foot care
 a camera (for the spectacular views)
 some basic personal care tidbits for the night in SJPDP
 guide book
 etc etc...
  then you have all you will need for your pilgrimage. (+ sleeping bag)

This was our 1st day experience, and I would recommend something like it for
those who want to do, but are concerned about the crossing from France into
Spain:
We took a night bus from Barcelona and were dropped off at 5am in the rain
in front of the (locked) Pamplona bus station.  It opens at 6am and then you
find out that the montagnesa bus to Roncervalles is in late afternoon, but
around you, people in hiking gear, walking sticks etc... and who seem to
have just met, are having a quick cafe con leche and a croissant, then
disappearing out the main station doors and off to the left in groups of 3
or 4...

after seeing a dozen people disappear this way we realized they were
arranging to share taxis directly to SJPDP (about 1 hour ride / 85 Euros).
What this gets you is into SJ by mid to late morning for a nice casual pace
in SJ and plenty of time to hike up to Untto (only 6km, but STEEP) for a
fantastic supper and views.

The next morning, the sunrise view are truly priceless over the valley and
your hike is shortened by 6 km. If you still need a little boost, for a
couple euros the owners of the gite in Untto will deliver your pack to you
10km uphill. This allows groups to even their speed for the uphill portion
of the day.

When you register in SJ, the very friendly volunteers who welcome you and
point you in the right direction after stamping your credential and will
phone and reserve you dinner and a bed in Untto if you like.

Sorry about the long text.
Remi & Jennifer