Hello! From Howard of Cellardyke Harbour, Scotland

[Howard Murphy]

Dear Friends,
Sorry to have been out of touch for so long but as many of you know it is my
health that dictates so many of my actions. At the moment I am slowly making
progress looking forward to when I am up and about again. The journey and the
unfortunate happenings in Spain before my pilgrimage added a lot of strain
that I could have done without.

I flew into Bilbao from Glasgow via Heathrow 30, August and then on to
Logrono for Ventosa, here I was due to hit the trail using donkey & cart,
unfortunately the donkey was too small to undertake such a journey also many
of the arrangements were broken. One being that the guide was not available
for the times given. I then left Ventosa by car on 9 September for twelve
days and not the expected thirty days.

However I found both Hospitalero's and fellow pilgrims very understanding and
sympathetic, making many new friends along the camino.

In past list-messages there have been many comments on so called 'Cheats'
it dissapointed me greatly. I think if a person has travelled from afar
making their pilgrimage in the best way for them then it should be recognised
and warmly accepted.

I also met many Spanish Association members travelling during the week-end
accompanied by bus. They all wanted stamps and perhaps in the future looked
forward to a weekend trip to Santiago and recieving the Compostela.  A
judgement
that must be left to the Pilgrims Office in Santiago.

I gained both the Santiago and Finisterre certificates finding niether to be
casually granted. In the office at Santiago I recieved a warm welcome, a
recognition of my disabilities and interest in the stamps from my Baptist
Church and from the Roman Catholic Church of my carer Ann.

At Finisterre the man in front of me was refused both the certificate and a
bed due to making the journey by bus.

On returning to Ventosa on the 21 September I was allowed to stay there
thanks to the two owners, Jose Luis Lopes & Enrique Gonzalez until my time to
fly back home 10 October.  During this time I enjoyed many festive nights
with both of them, plus the good company of their friends and excellent food
and vino.

Albergue de Perigrins San Saturnino in Ventosa is new. It is situated off the
road below the church of that name between Navarrette and Azofra, 5kms away
with Najera 10kms. The house is modern, with kitchen, dining area, two
bathrooms with showers and hot water. The dorms cater for 22 people. The main
room has a woodstove and large dining table and sitting area. A modern
washing machine is available to use for 500pts and the overnight charge is
700pts. The village has a bar serving food; egg & chips, sausage & chips plus
a well stocked shop.

The village folk are very friendly, extending a warm welcome despite neither
party sharing a common language other than the courtesy and interest in other
people.

I met the Brazilian writer Paulo Coelho author of such books as 'The
Alchemist.'  He visited Ventosa on the 29 September. A reason my guide not
being able to be with me was due to being already committed to guide Paulo
Coelho from 21 October to 1 September.

The following day Enrique phoned Jose Luiz to say he would visit in the
afternoon because 'He, had a record for me.'
He arrived proudly giving me a copy of the La Rioja, the regional paper, on
the front page it had a photograph showing myself and Paulo Coelho with other
photographs on page four. The next day the local paper had a photograph in it
too, nice souvenirs of my visit to Spain.

Before my journey to Spain Robert Spenger emailed asking me to give an
account of the costs of the pilgrimage. I will write in more detail later
suffice to write I lost over a thousand pounds sterling on the donkey & cart
with very few of the stated arrangements being honoured. Ales, the list owner
of another Santiago mailing list who made the arrangements let me down badly
and has never bothered to answer
the three e-mail's  sent to him since completing my pilgrimage.

Despite all the upsets and disappointment I still found the experience of the
Camino well worth it both my pilgrimages and time in Ventosa were well worth
it.

Taking ill on the journey home on 10 October I am now slowly making progress,
but
it will be a little time before I can share my journal with you.
Every Blessing.
Howard.

Hmcellardykeaaol.com

Howard Murphy
81 George Street
Cellardyke Harbour
Anstruther. Fife. KY10  3AS
Scotland. UK