Canfranc/Somport

[Robert E. Spenger]

Oloron is, indeed,  one of les Chemins de Saint Jacques (four total),
specifially the route from Arles. Surprisingly, it is only about 20 km or so
from one of the stops on the Lepuy route. I had considered switching over, but
then decided to stick with my original plan. According to the Confraternity
guide to the Arles route, it is either 67 or 69 km from Oloron to Canfranc
Estacion. The difference occurs in the section from Urdos to Somport, which is
listed as 14 km (beautiful, but rough, slow, poorly marked, and sometimes
impossible if the stream is too high.) The alternate is the highway which is 16
km. I chickened out and took the highway. It was still a beautiful walk. I had
some concern about the traffic on the road, but I probably saw more cyclists
than motor vehicles.

Some do the 67-69 km in two days, but, to me that seemed to be pushing it too
fast for a Pyrenees crossing.  I was 75 and was packing 30-35 pounds, so I
opted to take three days. Day one got me to Sarrance, about 23 km. I had called
ahead to the  priest at Notre-Dame-de-Sarrance and He had made a place for me
in the medieval kitchen of the ancient church, since the regular accomodations
were filled with students at that time of year. When I got there, he introduced
me to a lady who traught English classes there. She suggested that I might be
more comfortable at a nearby chambre d'hote and called the proprietor. There
was also a hotel, but I chose the chambre d'hote, which was fine. I did eat at
the hotel, but was disappointed with it. The next day I continued to Urdos,
where I had hotel reservations, courtesy of the lady who managed the chambre
d'hote. It is 26 km from Sarrance to Urdos, which is not very large, but the
hotel was quite nice -  both lodging and food. The following day I got a fairly
early start on the actual pass crossing, and it went quite easily. The sun was
out, but most of the uphill part was shaded at that time of day, so I was never
too hot. I could see plenty of snow on the higher peaks around me, but there
were no snow patches near the road (May 19.) By highway, it is 20 km from Urdos
to Canfranc Estacion, so it was an eay day, in spite of the elevation gain.

Oloron has plenty of accomodations. I stayed at a sort of youth hostel
(Hébergement) which was very inexpensive. This one did not have food service,
so I ate at a restaurant, which was expensive, but very good. I didn't see the
railroad station, but if there is train service there, I think that it would be
an excellent place to start the pilgrimage. The tourist bureau there is quite
helpful. The scenery along the route is magnificent.

regards,

Robert


Donald Schell wrote:

> Dear pilgrims,
>
> With more work on the French trains website I think I'm seeing that the last
> leg of the train trip to Canfranc is actually by bus from Oloron Ste Marie,
> and that the train(s) from Paris, Montparnasse to Oloron Ste Marie take
> about seven hours.  How close to Somport is Oloron Ste Marie?  Is it a town
> on the French Camino?  Is it a place to begin walking?  I'd appreciate any
> help on this, either information or suggestions of how to continue my own
> research.
>
> love,
> donald