VS: St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

[Petteri Kauppinen]

Hi, all,

I have similar type of experience from the Pyrenees as George does. I am not
yet a senior citizen (43), but I think the information in George's mail are
important to everybody.

First time I crossed them late August 1996 and - as I had practically no
knowledge of the route - I walk  all the way from St Jean on the highway. It
was pretty hard for the feet and I sure didn't love the heavy traffic.
Having a pack that weighed about 40 lbs. ( which at home felt really light
compared to the ones I was used to carry in Lapland ) didn't help much
either. On the other hand, one couldn't really get lost.

The second time, which was late April 1998, I used the napoleonian route. It
was a lot nicer and the views on the mountains were breathtaking. As I had
got a lot more information and experience of the Camiño on my previous three
and two week hikes, my pack was now only about 25 lbs., which made the climb
a lot easier.

The hard part on the latter trip was that on the mountains I was hit by a
heavy snow and hail storm. No wonder, that an English couple that I had met
on the train to St Jean had looked a bit astonished as I told them my plan
to star my walk right after the train arrived. They had seen the weather
broadcast!

In Finland we are used to snow and cold weather, but usually wearing
something else than shorts. The fortitude of the storm was also a bit more
than I was accustomed with back home. Well, my inner insulation has always
been pretty good thanks to my love for chocolate and ice-cream, so I did
survive. The hardest part for me was probably that it was pretty difficult
to keep track on the route during the storm, because the visibility had
dropped almost to zero. Luckily the storm didn't last too long.

The last couple of miles down to Roncesvalles were more of sliding than
walking. The reason was that I had opted to use 'slick' shoes that were
meant for asphalt in stead of my heavy duty hiking boots bought for Lapland.
I had decided to abandon them after my first trip, as they had been far too
warm and as most of the Camiño is on hard surface.

So, what we have to learn about George's and my experiences is that the
mountains - especially in early spring or late autumn - can be
unpredictable. The weather can change fast and a sunny day can turn into
something else. After the first few kilometers there is hardly any
habitation on the mountains, so if the weather turns really bad, it can be
wiser to double back in stead of continuing and risking to get lost.

It has been very interesting to read your comments and experiences. Merry
Christmas and a happy New Year from the Land of the Santa Claus to
everybody!

Best wishes,

Petteri Kauppinen


-----Alkuperäinen viesti-----
Lähettäjä: George Plaxton [mailto:gplaxtonaHOME.COM]
Lähetetty: 19. joulukuuta 2000 18:25
Vastaanottaja: GOCAMINOaPETE.URI.EDU
Aihe: St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles


I wrote the following message last June in response to a specific
request. It deals with the same subject raised by Robin in a message
dated December 13. Hope this is of interest.

                I left Saint Jean PP, France at 7:30 AM on April 7 last.
After about an hour into the trek, the ground fog had burned off and it
became a glorious, sunny day. However, along the Route Napoleon,
impassable snow drifts were reported and the Route was declared closed.
Pilgrims who attempted that route were directed to take the Valcarlos
route through the Ibaneta pass where the snow was spotty and the little
that remained was melting quickly. I arrived in Roncesvalles, at about
4:30 PM. There I met a retired lawyer in his early 60's from New Zealand
who had much experience trekking in the mountains of the N.Z. South
Island. He was unaware of the closure of Route Napoleon and had
attempted that route before units of the Guardia Civil had established
road blocks. He became lost and disoriented in the snow covered tracks
and had to turn back and take the Valcarlos route. He said he was lucky
to have found his way back at all. He was dressed in shorts and was
badly scratched about the shins.
                I found the Valcarlos route to be the most gruelling day's
stage of
the entire Camino. I was lost briefly when the track exited onto the
highway to Roncesvalles. I spent some time before I was directed by a
local Spaniard to the point where the track continued away from the
highway.It was poorly marked. The trek into O Cebriero was the second
most difficult day's journey but was far less demanding and
significantly easier to complete.
                The St. Jean PP to Roncesvalles trek led me to rethink
my priorities. I mailed two weighty boxes of "excess" items of clothing
and equipment to Santiago; one from Puenta La Reina and the other from
Logrono. I contemplated a third shipment but did not get around to doing
it. My pack was down to about 20 lbs without food and water. I believe I
could have reduced it further by about 3 lbs. more. I should explain
that I turned 69 at the end of May and would describe myself as being
reasonably fit for my age. However, I would not do the trek from St.
Jean again unless I started from a point in France at least 3 days
distant from St. Jean so as to overcome any lingering jet-lag and work
myself up to the challenge. I would also lighten my pack before leaving
home. As it was, I had arrived in Spain late on the second day before
the day I left St. Jean, having flown Toronto-Frankfurt and
Frankfurt-Bilbao. Following my arrival in Spain, I bused to Pamplona
and stayed there overnight and hitch-hiked to St. Jean where I stayed
overnight and departed the next morning. I hope this is helpful to those
senior citizens proposing to start from St. Jean PP.

                 George